rock climbing guiding and instruction in the Canadian Rockies

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"Thanksgiving" **
72m 3 Pitch 5.10c bolts
Ghost, Sentinel Crag
First ascent: 

  • (p1) B Spear, M Tremblay, August 2004 ground up 
  • (p2,p3) B Spear, M Miller Thanksgiving  2004 Ground up.

Gear requirements: 8 draws, 2 long slings

A fine bolted multi pitch climb with very photogenic leads.  This route was lead bolted with a power drill.  No protection is required.
Lead drill movie
(pdf description)


Pitch 1

Approach:

Park in the North Ghost Parking and approach as per "Cyclops".  Start up the scree cone for about 5min until flagging on the right indicates a trail.  Either continue stubbornly bashing up the scree or follow the flagged trail through the trees.  About 20min (note: the trail is through deep moss - please stay on the trail (especially on the descent) to avoid trashing this area.  This is also the approach for "One Cool Mouse"and "Strange Fire".

The climb

  1. 35m, 5.10b.  Start at a grassy platform 20m right of "One Cool Mouse".  Climb a thin crack (bolt) to a second bolt.  Traverse right past a bolt and gain a groove.  Climb this past three bolts (crux, 10b) to a roof.  Cross this right and climb to a bolted belay in a corner below a big roof.

  2. 20m, 5.10a. Make a few moves above the belay to a horizontal crack (bolt).  Hand traverse this to the arete and step up to a stance.  Climb the arete past four bolts to where the angle gets less steep.  Angle up and right to a bolted belay.

  3. 17m, 5.10c.  Step around right to a bolt on a slab.  Climb up past a second bolt to a small ledge.  Step up to a bolt and climb up and left (crux) to a stance.  Continue up past two more bolts to a tree beside a pillar.  Belay at ring bolts.

The descent

3 rappels with a 50m rope

Topo

 

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Climbing is dangerous
All information is to be applied at the user's own risk.  Seek professional instruction.